Exhibition produced by the Petit Palais, City of Paris Fine Art
Museum, Paris Musées, in association with the Dixon Gallery and Gardens,
Memphis, TN and Joslyn Art Museum, Omaha, NE.
Throughout history, jewelry has served both functional and decorative purposes, reflecting not only the
patron’s particular values and interests, but also the social, political, and economic circumstances of the time
and place of its creation. In France, Paris has long been considered a center of innovation in fashion, the visual arts, and
jewelry production.
Bijoux Parisiens: French Jewelry from the Petit Palais, Paris charts the course of jewelry design in France over four centuries,
tracking the country’s evolving jewelry aesthetic as it responded to historical events and art historical movements. The exhibition also tells the
story of dozens of talented artists, designers, and entrepreneurs, who created extraordinary works of art using the most precious materials on
earth. Drawn from the exceptional holdings of the Petit Palais, Paris, with generous contributions from lenders, the exhibition features nearly
seventy pieces of fine jewelry and
objet d’art, over one hundred technical and creative design drawings, and numerous fashion prints that
demonstrate the relationship between jewelry and fashion. A unique experience at Joslyn,
Bijoux Parisiens offers an impressive platform for
discovering the history of French taste and the enduring elegance of Paris.
The objects presented in
Bijoux Parisiens reveal the wealth and social fabric
of France as the country’s shifting tastes and ever-changing political
situations, from the reign of Louis XIV (r. 1643–1715) to World War II,
impacted how jewelry was worn and by whom. Necklaces, pendants,
bracelets, and brooches made with precious and semi-precious materials
like platinum, gold, diamonds, and gemstones reflect both the wearer’s
position in society and the designer’s creativity and skill. Many artistic
styles are shown together, including the severe aesthetic of Neoclassicism,
the natural forms of Art Nouveau, and the sleek, geometric lines of Art
Deco, demonstrating how Parisian preferences changed over time. Design
drawings also show the endless imagination of artists and entrepreneurs,
who first designed for the aristocracy and later for the famous jewelry
maisons of Paris; Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, among others, remain
international brands with lasting appeal to this day. Expressing the age
in which they were made, the unique and compelling objects in
Bijoux
Parisiens: French Jewelry from the Petit Palais, Paris will delight the senses
and inspire the imagination.
Jewelry can express personal values as well as status and wealth.
When Napoleon Bonaparte crowned himself emperor in 1804, he
consciously linked his regime to cultures of the ancient past that recalled
the heroic and civic virtues of Greece and Rome. His fondness for cameos
resulted in high demand among fashionable Parisians, to the point that
jewelers began replicating the small carved hardstones in enamel.
Designers produced thousands of drawings to test ideas, but not all
of them were made into jewelry.
Jewelry houses, or
maisons, like Cartier (established in 1847) employed
many talented designers to create jewelry for the company. Designs like
this helped to determine the size, structure, and materials that might be
used in the final product. In this drawing, the round white portion
represents carved rock crystal while the blue squares signify diamonds.
What's pictured: (left) Artist Unknown, Paris,
Neoclassical Necklace, ca. 1800, gold and enamel; Petit Palais, Musée des Beaux-Arts de la Ville de Paris, PPO 03786; © Petit Palais / Roger-Viollet
Although luxurious, jewelry can also be economical.
The French monarchy returned after the defeat of Napoleon I in 1814, but a weakened
financial situation among the aristocracy resulted in a cautious attitude toward
showy ornamentation. Instead of costly gems like diamonds, courtiers preferred
semi-precious stones, such as amethysts and tourmalines. This
parure, or jewelry
set, features stretched and woven gold for the setting, providing maximum
effect for minimum expense.
Artistic styles used in painting, prints, and
architecture were also found in jewelry design.
In the spirit of innovation, artists looked to nature for
inspiration and created a new style called Art Nouveau
(“new art”). Instead of copying objects directly from
nature, artists reinterpreted natural forms like plant life
and insects in abstract ways. One of the masters of this
style was René Lalique (1860–1945), whose designs
played with line, color, and transparency.
Fashion plates and advertisements informed buyers about the latest jewelry styles
and where to get them.
Advertisements in Parisian magazines showcased current fashion trends and the
stylish jewelry to wear with popular clothing. This fashion plate (above right) shows a woman
trying to decide which of her Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry to wear for the evening.
Jewelry designers often looked to the world around them for inspiration.
This turquoise and diamond studded bracelet (left) imitates the verticality and decorative flamboyance of France’s Gothic cathedrals, reflecting a revival of interest in France’s medieval past that began in Paris around 1825 with the opening of the Museé de Cluny, a repository of spectacular medieval objects. The restoration of Gothic churches around the 1840s also added to the fascination.
What's pictured: (above right) Edward Halouze (dates unknown),
Advertisement for Van Cleef & Arpels, 1920, Gazette du
bon ton, color lithograph on paper, Petit Palais, Musée des Beaux-Arts de la Ville de Paris, LDUT 01255;
© Petit Palais / Roger-Viollet; (below right) Artist Unknown, France,
Amethyst Parure, 1820–30, amethysts and gold; Petit Palais, Musée des Beaux-Arts de la Ville de Paris, ODUT 01955; © Petit Palais / Roger-Viollet; (left) Lucien Falize (1839–1897),
Gothic Bracelet, ca. 1880, gold, diamonds, turquoise, Petit Palais, Musée des Beaux-Arts de la Ville de Paris, ODUT 01865; © Petit Palais / Roger-Viollet
Hours, Tickets, & Tours
Bijoux Parisiens is open during all regular Museum hours: Tuesday through Sunday, 10 am to 4 pm; late 'til 8 pm on Thursday. Closed Mondays and major holidays.
Bijoux Parisiens is a ticketed exhibition:
General public adults: $10
(Thursday evening pricing, 4-8 pm: $5 for general public adults)
Youth ages 17 and younger: Free
College students with ID: Free
Joslyn Members: Free (Not a member?
Click here to join now!)
All visitors, including members, must obtain a ticket for entrance to the exhibition (no reservations necessary).
Programs with visits to the exhibition will be priced accordingly for general public adults. Docent-guided tours of the exhibition are offered on select days. Check the
calendar of events for exact tour dates.
Bijoux Parisiens ticket pricing applies.
Mobile Bijoux Parisiens
Free Wi-Fi is available in all Joslyn galleries. Bring your web-enabled
mobile device or borrow one of ours to access the dual language
Bijoux Parisiens
mobile tour. Presented by Joslyn and OnCell. Call (402) 881-3601 to
access the tour in English; (402) 972-4031 for the Spanish language
tour. Tour access information also available on site and on the Museum's
mobile tour page.
The Catalogue
Purchase the
Bijoux Parisiens exhibition catalogue in the Hitchcock Museum Shop or
online: $54.95 (Member price: $49.46)
Exhibition-Related Events & Programs
Friday, June 2; 5:30–8 pm
Members Preview Reception
Saturday, June 3; 10 am–4 pm
Members Preview Day
Saturday, June 3 @ 6 pm
Joslyn Art Museum Association Gala
Saturday, June 17 @ 1 pm (in English) & 2 pm (in French)
Royalty, Revolution, Republic: French Jewelry & Design presented by Jan Schneider Lund
Thursday, June 29 @ 6:30 pm & 7:15 pm
Curator Gallery Talks: Bijoux Parisiens
Thursday, July 6; 5–7 pm
Omaha Under the Radar
Thursday, July 27 @ 6:30 pm
The Allure of the Past: 100 Years of French Jewelry with Emily Stoehrer, Ph.D., Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
Thursday, August 17 @ 6:30 pm & 7:15 pm
Curator Gallery Talks: Bijoux Parisiens
Tuesday, August 15 @ 7 pm
Screening: Marie Antoinette in partnership with Film Streams
Friday, August 25 @ 6:30 pm
Bling! Girls Night Out at the Museum
Many regularly scheduled programs will be presented with a nod to
Wild Spaces, Open Seasons. Check these listings for details: